35) Lockdown 13: Ramadan

Government food distribution in our neighborhood.

Under Morocco’s coronavirus containment plan, the government is giving food packages to needy families. Last week a three men distributed them to most of the houses on our street. They were escorted by a police car. The bags contained tea, sugar, flour, lentils, chick peas and cooking oil. A friend who received one estimated the value of the contents at 30 euros. During the lockdown, the government is also sending monthly payments of between 80 and 100 euros to families in the informal sector. Those who are on the free health plan for poor people, RAMED, send their file number by text message to the agency in charge and receive withdrawal instructions back via text message. Morocco is still primarily a cash economy and many people do not have bank accounts. Private and postal cash points serve their needs.

During Ramadan, Muslims tend reverse their hours, eating and partying during the night and sleeping much of the day. Banks and businesses keep Ramadan hours, generally open in the mornings and closing early in the afternoon. Here in Sidi Ifni, normally the main shopping street closes to traffic an hour or so before sundown and traders and local women set up stands selling dates, fruit, pastries and bread. At sundown the firehouse sounds its siren and the cafes open to serve bowls of Harira, a hearty tomato based soup with lentils, chick peas spices and sometimes pasta, that is a traditional breakfast (Ftour) to begin the night time eating.

But this is not a normal year. All shops must close at 5 p.m. Our curfew begins one hour later than prior to Ramadan, at 7 p.m., and the fire siren sounds at approximately 7:30 p.m. to signal sundown. Moroccans have to stay home now with just their nuclear families. Usually extended families celebrate together during the night. Since people are already confined and generally sleeping during the fast period, they are hardly getting out at all. When I have been shopping in the morning, most of the few clients are other foreigners. The Moroccans go out briefly to shop in the afternoon wearing the required masks and carrying the permission papers for brief errands. I wonder how long it will be before tempers fray.

A friend’s Ftour featuring sardines, egglant dip, and a hearty omelette.

As for us, Jean Marie’s health is improving daily. We braved the confinement measure and had our friend Taofiq come in to give Jean Marie a drastic haircut and a shave. Yesterday Jean Marie donned his mask and left the house for the first time since our return for a short shopping trip. I am sending his vital signs weekly now to his doctor in Marrakech and we will do a follow up visit to the clinic there before heading back to France. We are not sure when that will be, but France is organizing some more repatriation flights so perhaps we will go at the end of May or in early June.

Jean Marie gets a home hair cut.

6 thoughts on “35) Lockdown 13: Ramadan

  1. I am reading all your posts to Paul, Joyce, and we are very much enjoying them. They are clearly increasing our anticipation of our trip to Morocco a year from now. We are frankly impressed by everything we’ve heard about the government’s approach to this crisis. Of course, everything’s relative.

    • You are right Sharon. I must stop being so grumpy about Ramadan and instead write about the positive side of Morocco’s so far smart efforts to contain the virus.

  2. Keep writing Joyce , wouldn’t wish your recent trauma on anyone but your blogs are gripping.We are all coping as best we can but seeing from another culture is fascinating. Stay safe both of you , in good health and try to remain sane in this crazy situation, Love Marilyn

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  3. Echoing the comments above! Fascinating to learn about Morocco’s coronavirus approach (seems exemplary, if at times frustrating) and Ramadan in Morocco–and the intersection of the two, alsol. Stay healthy. So glad J-M’s doing so well.

  4. That’s quite a haircut on Jean-Marie, but he won’t need another for a while.
    Your friend’s Ftour looks delicious, but breakfast? Is that really what people eat for breakfast if they are having family over? What happens next? A snack at midnight and breakfast when? Ramadan would be difficult enough for me as a retired person, it has got to be a nightmare for families with children. Thanks for the post.

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